{"id":62,"date":"2013-03-08T15:57:00","date_gmt":"2013-03-08T23:57:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/blog.schafenfreude.com\/?p=62"},"modified":"2013-10-27T18:40:58","modified_gmt":"2013-10-28T01:40:58","slug":"ms-and-o-hecks","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blog.schafenfreude.com\/?p=62","title":{"rendered":"M&#8217;s and O-Hecks"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>I&#8217;m finally plowing along on getting my vest fabric going (yes, still behind) but I&#8217;m going to say that the gamp fabric counted as a sample, so I&#8217;m half way there.  Maybe it&#8217;s a bit of cheating, but given how much I liked the twill once it was finished, I&#8217;m sure it&#8217;ll make it&#8217;s way into a garment at some point.  Even Chris approved of it. &#8220;This&#8217;d be a nice jacket, I think.&#8221; On to the second fabric. Weaving with finer and finer yarns seems to be my current path and this was a chance to start digging into the 2\/26 mill ends I picked up from Webs last year.  I&#8217;ve got four colors &#8211; navy, light pink, and two tans &#8211; a dark and a light.  There&#8217;s definitely enough there to make a sizeable piece of fabric so putting on a sample warp isn&#8217;t a dead end.  Also, if you recall, I&#8217;d been reading an old Shuttle Craft that had a series of articles on M&#8217;s and O&#8217;s done with a new &#8220;Drapery Cotton&#8221;.  I&#8217;m inferring that this is equivalent to the 8\/2 unmercerized that I use for dishtowels, but that wasn&#8217;t going to be anywhere near fine enough for what I wanted.  Enter the 2\/26. After doing research, both from the article and from poring over other projects, I decided to just sett the fabric for a plain weave as a starting point, and then sett a subsequent piece a little closer.  Also, the M&#8217;s and O&#8217;s are a four-shaft pattern (though Harriet Tidball has an expanded one on six or more shafts to yield a true tabby) so it&#8217;d be uncomplicated to start.  Famous last words. Anyway, on to details:  <\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Draft Pattern &#8211; standard 4-shaft M&#8217;s and O&#8217;s, 32 end repeat<\/li>\n<li>Yarn &#8211; 2\/26 wool, tans as the warp, will use all four for weft<\/li>\n<li>Sett &#8211; 32 epi, 4 ends per dent in an 8 dent reed<\/li>\n<li>Warp &#8211; 10.5&#8243; wide in the reed (&#8217;cause I can&#8217;t count) and 3 yards long<\/li>\n<li>Beat &#8211; 32 ppi for balanced plain weave<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>I also decided to use Tidball&#8217;s &#8220;false tabby&#8221; on the selvedges (harnesses 1 and 4, threaded alternately).  I wound the warp, beamed on, threaded, sleyed and wove a lovely header row.  Oddly enough, it was plain weave all the way across.  And, on the first pattern shed, it hit me.  I&#8217;d only threaded the &#8220;M&#8221; blocks (1\/2 and 3\/4).  All the way across.  And, while interesting, it&#8217;ll not give me anything even close to what I was after.  So, I untied, pulled it out of the reed and re-threaded half the ends to give me &#8220;O&#8221; blocks.  The good news is that each repeat of 16 ends used four heddles on each shaft &#8211; regardless of which block I was threading.  I certainly could have been worse. And hey &#8211; it looks great! <\/p>\n<table>\n<tr>\n<td><a href=\"https:\/\/picasaweb.google.com\/lh\/photo\/JByeM237b3CSxkq1gYakBAKsZ3_pFmNayljudsAD9_8?feat=embedwebsite\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/lh6.googleusercontent.com\/-uwIZNc1h8CI\/UTpjLvQVqdI\/AAAAAAAACmI\/IHLEofIvC1I\/s144\/IMG_2523.jpg\" height=\"108\" width=\"144\"><\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/table>\n<p> I&#8217;m alternating the dark tan with the navy for this first section, then I&#8217;ll start rotating in the light tan and the pink so see which I like the most.  So far, the tabby sections are beating to square and I&#8217;m already seeing the distortion of the float blocks. <\/p>\n<table>\n<tr>\n<td><a href=\"https:\/\/picasaweb.google.com\/lh\/photo\/vkoMM3EKWK21_PCvcVEw0wKsZ3_pFmNayljudsAD9_8?feat=embedwebsite\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/-umrzFjM4buI\/UTpjJ0F5lDI\/AAAAAAAACl4\/_td2OeMpfxM\/s144\/IMG_2521.jpg\" height=\"108\" width=\"144\"><\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/table>\n<p> In the above picture, you can see the transition from the dark tan (on the right) to the light tan (on the left).  The reed marks look a lot stronger in this picture than they do on the loom and I&#8217;m hopeful that they&#8217;ll wash out when I finish the fabric.  Then, once I finish the block and resley for a finer sett, I&#8217;ll rethread for a twill &#8211; just to get a little experience with that threading and this yarn.  Plus, that can count as another sample for a future piece.  Another reason why I went with the three yard warp.  Feels like I should get plenty out of this exercise. Finally, Lynn, you were asking about Complex Weavers.  I had been thinking about joining that guild &#8211; again, as a way to continue to have accountability and also to try and build a sample book.  I&#8217;ve signed up for the &#8220;Beyond Plain Weave Garments&#8221; study group, which includes a once or twice per year sample exchange.  The goal is fabric for garments (perfect!) and &#8220;Beyond Plain Weave&#8221; is a very loose definition.  It can be fabric structure, yarns, whatever.  And, as part of the exchange, I&#8217;ll get a piece of everyone&#8217;s fabric along with details on yarns, structure, and any notes they have on how the fabric behaved as part of being sewn.  I only get samples when I contribute, and I don&#8217;t get kicked out if I don&#8217;t contribute.  We&#8217;ll be doing an exchange in September &#8211; plenty of time for me to get a vest (or three!) done.  And the samples are small &#8211; only 3&#8243; x 3&#8243;, and can even come from waste material that otherwise falls on the cutting room floor.  My kind of bunch. That&#8217;s my update so far.  I&#8217;ll trot all the goals for the quarter out in a week or so &#8211; and start thinking about Spring!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>I&#8217;m finally plowing along on getting my vest fabric going (yes, still behind) but I&#8217;m going to say that the gamp fabric counted as a sample, so I&#8217;m half way there. Maybe it&#8217;s a bit of cheating, but given how &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/blog.schafenfreude.com\/?p=62\">Continue reading <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-62","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-weaving"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.schafenfreude.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/62","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.schafenfreude.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.schafenfreude.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.schafenfreude.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.schafenfreude.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=62"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/blog.schafenfreude.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/62\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":193,"href":"https:\/\/blog.schafenfreude.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/62\/revisions\/193"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.schafenfreude.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=62"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.schafenfreude.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=62"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.schafenfreude.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=62"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}